mardi, 1 septembre, 2009

The wines of Bulli-land
31 Aug 2009 by Jancis Robinson
« Having spent quite a substantial part of 21 consecutive summers in the  western Languedoc, we are finding ourselves straying south of the  Spanish border with increasing frequency – mainly to enjoy the much  more varied and sophisticated food that’s available there.  Cassoulet  v El Bulli acolytes sprinkled liberally over the Costa Brava basically  – not much of a contest.  See, for example, Richard Neville’s recent  review of  Ca l’Enric in Your views.

The wines made in the very far north-eastern corner of Spain, in the  DO Empordà, have also been improving quite considerably. This steep,  traditionally terraced, often schistous wine country on the  Mediterranean coast is only just over the border from Banyuls in  Roussillon, and in parts the rocks look not unlike the llicorella of  Priorat, and are far from a million miles from those of the Agly Valley.

The most impressive wine I have come across from this part of the  world is the first vintage of a new enterprise, S’Alqueria 2006  Empordà. Ivo Pagès, pictured here wearing the traditional Catalan  baratina (described by him as having a similar status as a kilt in  Scotland) at a wedding,


was brought up in the wild hills, mainly  National Park, in the hinterland of Cadaquès, just round a rocky  headland from El Bulli. With experience from wineries all over Europe,  he began work on older vineyards in his homeland and this is the  result.  It is the most sophisticated blend of very old Samsó (Carignan) and Grenache Noir from Rabos, and 18-year-old Petit Verdot  and old Macabeo from Villajuiga. The result is a 13.5% subtle red  blend with considerable minerality and a whiff of the sea. It’s not  cheap, alas.  Planet of the Grapes in London want £37.50 for a bottle.  Also in London, Philglas & Swiggot are listed as stockists on Pagès  information-rich website in four languages. But the wine is certainly  classed-growth standard, and really distinctive. It’s also on the list  at restaurants such as The Greenhouse Restaurant* UMU* and Pied à Terre**,  apparently. Look out for a new style of red he is developing in tandem  with this most serious wine.

Ivo’s top new restaurant tip in his area, by the way is the Miramar in  Port Llanca which now has an ex Bulli chef installed.  We have had two  excellent lunches at the slightly more traditional Els Pescadores right on the marina where the sommelier is a delight. »

Jancis…thanks for your support and the people I work with: growers, wholesalers, restaurants, retail shops…. They had the guts tom buy my wine without knowing me, or with any media support. they just liked it  and that’s the beauty. It just confort me on the quality potential of wines from Emporda D.O.

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S'alqueria- Single photo - copie


Ca L’Enric…

mercredi, 10 juin, 2009

Llegando al Restaurante… On the way to the restaurant…  Sur la route..

Toscana. No ! Catalunya...Si !!!

Toscana. No..... Catalunya...Si !!!


Can l'Enric

Ca l'Enric

Aqui un par de fotos de la comida en Ca L’Enric de la familia  Junca:

Isabel & Jordi cocinando i Joan en salla. – Isabel & Jordi en cuisine et Joan en salle.

« ….el viatge val, sobretot, la pena perquè a Ca l’Enric cuinen de meravella… »  utòpic bloc:Pep Palau »

Ca l’Enric restaurante con estrella Michelín situado en la Vall de Bianya, lugar para visitar, con vistas paisajísticas. Decoración elegante con toques rústicos. Disfrute de los placeres de la cocina catalana más vanguardista en un paraje natural imponente.  Ahora miras las fotos… Te vas a morir de ambre…

Dicen: « Hablar de Ca L´Enric es , hablar de otra dimension….platos basados en el sabor enorme y el respeto por el producto tratado de una forma personal e intransferible. Si añadimos al enorme nivel de Isabel y Jordi Junca en la cocina , la sala comandada por su hermano Joan, un autentico crack con su mano derecha Juan, nos encontramos con un restaurante situado en otra dimension, no solo en España , sino me atreveria a decir que en Europa. « 

A table....

A table....

Foie Gras aux Anchois, poire et gateaux croquants à l’anis -Interprétation d’une vieille recette traditionelle du canard aux anchois. Exquis !


Bocquerones, Gaspacho, Bacalao..

puis … Patate frite, Saucisse de joue de porc et ci dessous « petits pois du jardin (fondants) boudin noir et joue de bacalao »…. pas eu de temps de prendre une foto.. trop bon !!


Oeuf mollet, oignons et pommes de terre.


Filets de rougets, avec créme d’entrailles et créme d’olives noires


Riz aux morilles …. un tout petit peu trop salé ce jour là…P1010575

Filet de Boeuf, morilles, flan de morilles.


Déssert ..sorbet et café…


P1010578café..volcanique… comme les terres alentours: Vall de Bianya

« I am a man of simple taste , easily satisfied with the best » Sir Winston Churchill..

Most dishes are an elaborate variation on the basic mountain theme of wild game and mushrooms, but this is Catalan fare with nouvelle cuisine flair (or is that nouvelle cuisine frugality). My gripe here is that portions tend to be smallish by Catalan standards. Jordi Junca was the youngest chef recognized with by the Michelin guide. He was only 18 years old when he had his first star !
Be that as it may, this is widely recognized to be the one of the best, if not the best restaurant in the area. Closed on Sunday nights and Mondays.

Déjeuner délicieux et accompagné d’un trés bon Cava et de S’Alqueria  « Of course » !!

P1010567Reconnu par le guide Michelin, je me suis régalé et suis sorti léger. Only the Best…


Olot…. for ever !!

jeudi, 16 avril, 2009

Moltes gracies a mi « grupo de fans »: Carmen, Paz i  Béa (una amiga encontrada en Cadaqués, appasionada de buenos vinos) para informarme de  restaurantes super buenos en la Garrotxa !!!  Gracias a estas informaciones me fue a presentar mi vino i……..las personnas visitadas fueran muy amables. La zona esta muy preciosa para pasear i cambia del aire del mar  !

Que suerte tienen ….Entre poco tiempos podran disfrutar  » S’Alqueria » tambien !!!


Muy buena cena en Ca l’Enric..Restaurant Ca l’Enric i gracies a Joan !